Fashion Manufacturing Glossary: 150+ Terms Every Founder Must Know
The fashion manufacturing industry has its own language and if you don’t speak it, you’ll lose time, money, and credibility with the factories you’re trying to work with. This glossary covers 150+ real production terms we use every day at Plucky Reach, organized by category so you can reference them at any stage of your brand-building journey.
Walking into a manufacturer meeting without knowing the difference between CMT and FPP, or confusing GSM with MOQ, is one of the fastest ways to signal that you’re a beginner. We’ve seen it happen hundreds of times across our 1,000+ brand launches. The good news? You don’t need a fashion degree. You just need this guide.
We put this glossary together based on 20+ years of working with garment manufacturers right here in the Los Angeles Fashion District. Every term below is one you’ll encounter during your journey from first sketch to finished product. Bookmark this page you’re going to need it.
“The brands that succeed in manufacturing are the ones that learn the language first. When a founder walks into a factory and speaks in tech pack terms, grading specs, and costing breakdowns, the manufacturer takes them seriously from day one.” – Diana Reyes, Production Manager, LA Fashion District
How to Use This Glossary
We’ve organized these 150+ terms into seven categories that mirror the actual stages of garment manufacturing:
- Fabric & Material Terms Understanding what you’re working with
- Pattern & Design Terms The blueprint stage
- Construction & Sewing Terms How garments come together
- Production & Manufacturing Terms The factory floor
- Quality Control Terms Keeping standards high
- Business & Costing Terms The money side
- Sustainability Terms Responsible manufacturing
Each term includes a clear, plain-English definition. Where helpful, we’ve added context about how the term shows up in real conversations with manufacturers. If you’re brand new to fashion manufacturing, we recommend starting with our guide on how to find a clothing manufacturer alongside this glossary.
According to our internal data, 72% of first-time founders encounter at least 20 unfamiliar manufacturing terms during their first factory meeting. Among Plucky Reach clients who study manufacturing terminology before their first meeting, 89% report a smoother negotiation process and faster timelines to first sample.
Fabric & Material Terms
These are the terms you’ll encounter as soon as you start sourcing fabric which is one of the first major decisions you’ll make. For a deeper dive into fabric sourcing, check out our start your brand guide.
Bamboo Fabric A textile made from bamboo pulp, often processed into bamboo viscose or bamboo lyocell. Known for softness, moisture-wicking properties, and antimicrobial qualities. Popular in athleisure and loungewear.
Bias The diagonal direction across a woven fabric, at a 45-degree angle to the selvage. Fabric cut on the bias has more stretch and drapes differently than fabric cut on the grain. Bias-cut garments cling to the body and are common in evening wear.
Blend A fabric made from two or more different fiber types (e.g., 60% cotton / 40% polyester). Blends are engineered to combine the best properties of each fiber comfort, durability, stretch, cost, or hand feel.
Bolt A roll or length of fabric as it comes from the mill, typically 40–100 yards depending on the fabric type. When you order fabric, you order by the bolt or by the yard.
Broadcloth A tightly woven plain-weave fabric with a smooth finish, commonly made from cotton or a cotton-poly blend. Used in dress shirts, uniforms, and basic apparel.
Calendering A finishing process where fabric is passed through heated rollers to produce a smooth, polished surface. Used to give fabrics a slight sheen or to close the weave for water resistance.
Colorway A specific color combination or palette for a particular style. If you design a hoodie that comes in black, navy, and forest green, each color option is a separate colorway. Manufacturers price and produce each colorway separately.
Combed Cotton Cotton that has been combed to remove short fibers and impurities, leaving only the longest, straightest fibers. Produces a smoother, stronger, softer yarn than carded cotton. Costs more but feels noticeably better.
Denier A unit of measurement for the thickness (linear density) of individual fibers or filaments. One denier equals one gram per 9,000 meters of fiber. Higher denier means thicker, heavier fabric. Common in hosiery and outerwear (e.g., 70D nylon).
Drape How a fabric hangs or falls when held or worn on the body. Fabrics with good drape (like rayon, silk, or jersey) flow and move naturally. Stiff fabrics (like canvas or denim) have less drape.
DTY (Draw Textured Yarn) A type of polyester yarn that has been textured to give it stretch, bulk, and a softer hand feel compared to flat polyester yarn. Commonly used in activewear and performance fabrics.
Dye Lot A specific batch of fabric that was dyed together in the same dye bath at the same time. Fabric from different dye lots can have slight color variations. This is why manufacturers insist on ordering all fabric for a production run from the same dye lot.
FDY (Fully Drawn Yarn) A type of polyester yarn that is fully oriented and drawn during manufacturing, producing a smooth, lustrous yarn. Used in linings, activewear, and blended fabrics.
Filament A single continuous strand of fiber, as opposed to staple fiber which comes in short lengths. Silk and most synthetic fibers (polyester, nylon) are filament fibers. They produce smooth, lustrous fabrics.
Finish Any treatment applied to fabric after weaving or knitting to alter its appearance, hand feel, or performance. Examples include softening, water-repellent coating, anti-wrinkle treatment, and enzyme washing.
FPP (Fiber, Processing, Performance) A shorthand used in some fabric mills to classify a textile by its fiber content, the processing method used, and its intended performance characteristics.
GSM (Grams per Square Meter) The standard unit for measuring fabric weight. A lightweight t-shirt fabric might be 120–160 GSM. A mid-weight hoodie fleece is typically 280–350 GSM. A heavy winter coat fabric could be 400+ GSM. GSM is one of the first things you’ll specify on a tech pack.
“If there’s one number every new founder needs to understand, it’s GSM. I’ve had clients order 160 GSM jersey expecting a heavyweight hoodie feel that’s the weight of a basic tee. Know your GSMs before you approve any fabric, or you’ll waste money on samples that feel nothing like what you envisioned.” – Carlos Medina, Textile Sourcing Specialist, 18 Years in LA Garment Industry
Hand Feel (Hand) The tactile quality of a fabric how it feels when you touch it. Terms used to describe hand feel include soft, crisp, stiff, silky, rough, and smooth. Hand feel is subjective but critically important in premium fashion.
Interlining A layer of fabric placed between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment. Used to add structure, warmth, or body. Common in blazers, coats, and collars. Different from interfacing (see Construction Terms).
Jersey A single-knit fabric with a smooth face and a slightly textured back. Named after the island of Jersey in the English Channel. Most basic t-shirts are made from cotton jersey. It’s stretchy, comfortable, and relatively inexpensive.
Knit A fabric constructed by interlocking loops of yarn (as opposed to weaving). Knit fabrics have natural stretch and are used for t-shirts, leggings, sweaters, and activewear. Types include jersey, rib knit, interlock, and French terry.
Lawn A lightweight, finely woven cotton or linen fabric with a crisp finish. Used in summer blouses, dresses, and handkerchiefs.
Linen A natural fiber made from the flax plant. Linen is breathable, moisture-wicking, and has a distinctive texture. It wrinkles easily, which some brands embrace as part of the aesthetic.
Mercerization A chemical treatment applied to cotton fabric or yarn that increases luster, strength, and dye affinity. Mercerized cotton has a slight sheen and richer color saturation.
Modal A type of rayon made from beech tree pulp. Softer than standard viscose rayon, with better shape retention after washing. Commonly used in underwear, loungewear, and t-shirts.
Nap The raised, fuzzy surface on certain fabrics (like velvet, corduroy, fleece, or brushed cotton). Fabrics with nap require special cutting all pattern pieces must be cut in the same direction, or the color will appear different.
Ounce (oz) An alternative weight measurement for fabric, typically expressed as ounces per square yard (oz/sq yd) or ounces per linear yard. Common in the denim industry a 12 oz denim is a mid-weight denim.
Pilling The formation of small balls or “pills” of fiber on the surface of a fabric, caused by friction during wear or washing. Lower-quality fabrics pill more quickly. Pilling resistance is a key quality indicator.
Ply The number of individual yarns twisted together to make a single strand. Two-ply (2-ply) means two yarns twisted together, producing a stronger, more durable fabric. Common in premium t-shirts and knitwear.
Rayon (Viscose) A semi-synthetic fiber made from regenerated cellulose (wood pulp). Rayon drapes beautifully, absorbs dye well, and feels soft but it can shrink and wrinkle easily. It’s one of the most versatile and affordable fashion fibers.
Rib Knit A knit fabric with alternating raised and lowered rows (ribs) that give it pronounced stretch and recovery. Used for cuffs, neckbands, waistbands, and body-hugging garments.
Selvage (Selvedge) The finished edge on both sides of a woven fabric that prevents it from unraveling. In denim, “selvedge denim” refers to denim woven on old-style shuttle looms, producing a clean, self-finished edge. Selvedge denim is a premium product.
Staple Fiber Short lengths of fiber (as opposed to continuous filament). Cotton, wool, and linen are natural staple fibers. Polyester can be cut into staple lengths to be spun into yarn, mimicking the properties of natural fibers.
Tencel (Lyocell) A branded fiber made from sustainably harvested wood pulp using a closed-loop solvent process. Known for softness, breathability, and eco-friendliness. Commonly used in denim alternatives, dresses, and activewear.
Warp The set of yarns that run lengthwise (vertically) on a loom during weaving. Warp yarns are held under tension and are typically stronger than weft yarns. The warp direction in a finished fabric runs parallel to the selvage.
Weft (Fill) The set of yarns that run crosswise (horizontally) on a loom, interlacing with the warp. The weft is carried across the loom by a shuttle or projectile. Also called “fill” or “filling.”
Woven A fabric constructed by interlacing two sets of yarns (warp and weft) at right angles. Woven fabrics generally don’t stretch (unless blended with spandex) and are used for shirts, trousers, jackets, and outerwear. Types include plain weave, twill, and satin weave.
Yarn Count A numerical expression of yarn thickness. Different systems exist (Ne for cotton count, Nm for metric, denier for filament). Higher cotton count means finer, thinner yarn. Understanding yarn count helps you specify the exact fabric weight and feel you want.
Pattern & Design Terms
These terms come into play when you’re developing your designs and creating the technical documents your manufacturer needs. If you haven’t built a tech pack yet, start with our tech pack template guide.
Block (Sloper) A basic pattern template made to standard body measurements without any style details, seam allowances, or design features. It’s the starting point from which all styled patterns are developed. Think of it as a blank canvas pattern.
CAD (Computer-Aided Design) Software used to create digital patterns, technical drawings, and design layouts. Common CAD programs in fashion include Gerber AccuMark, Optitex, Lectra, CLO 3D, and Browzwear. CAD speeds up the pattern-making and grading process.
Colorway Sheet A document showing all the color options for a single style, with Pantone references, fabric swatches, or digital color codes for each variation. Included in or alongside the tech pack.
Croquis A quick sketch of a fashion figure used as a base for drawing garment designs. Croquis are typically elongated (9–10 heads tall) to showcase garment proportions and silhouette.
Draping A pattern-making technique where fabric is pinned and shaped directly on a dress form to create the desired silhouette. The draped fabric is then removed and used to create a flat pattern. Common for evening wear and couture.
Flat Sketch (Flat) A two-dimensional technical drawing of a garment as if it were laid flat on a table. Flats show construction details like seams, stitching, closures, and topstitching without any artistic stylization. They are a required element of every tech pack.
Grading The process of scaling a base-size pattern up and down to create a complete size range. For example, if your base size is Medium, grading creates the Small, Large, and XL patterns by adjusting measurements at specific grade points according to a grade rule table.
Grade Rule A table specifying exactly how many inches or centimeters each measurement point on a pattern should increase or decrease between each size. Grade rules vary by garment type, target market, and brand fit philosophy.
Marker A layout diagram showing how all the pattern pieces for all sizes are arranged on the fabric for cutting. Marker efficiency (expressed as a percentage) measures how much fabric is used versus wasted. A good marker achieves 80–85%+ efficiency.
Measurement Spec (Spec Sheet) A document listing every critical measurement of a garment (chest width, body length, sleeve length, etc.) for each size in the size range. Part of the tech pack and used during quality control to verify garments are made to specification.
Muslin A test garment made from inexpensive fabric (traditionally muslin cotton) to check the fit and proportions of a pattern before cutting into the actual production fabric. Also called a “toile” in European terminology.
Notch A small mark cut into the edge of a pattern piece to indicate alignment points for construction. Notches tell the sewing operator where two pieces should match up for example, where a sleeve meets a bodice.
Pantone The standardized color matching system used universally in the fashion and textile industry. When you specify a color, you give the Pantone number (e.g., Pantone 19-4052 Classic Blue) so that the dye house, fabric mill, and manufacturer all produce the exact same shade. Pantone TPX/TCX references are used for textiles.
Pattern The template (paper or digital) used to cut fabric pieces that will be sewn together into a garment. A complete pattern includes all the individual pieces needed front body, back body, sleeves, collar, pockets, facings, etc. with seam allowances, grain lines, and notches.
Point of Measure (POM) A specific location on a garment where a measurement is taken. Standard POMs include chest width (measured one inch below armhole), body length (measured from highest point of shoulder), sleeve length, and many more. POMs are standardized in spec sheets.
Seam Allowance The area between the stitching line and the cut edge of the fabric. Standard seam allowances range from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch depending on the seam type and garment construction. Seam allowances are built into the pattern.
Size Range The complete set of sizes offered for a particular style. A typical size range might be XS–XL or S–3XL. Each size in the range is created through grading. Your manufacturer needs to know the size range before they can provide production pricing.
Size Run The quantity breakdown per size within a production order. For example, in a 100-unit order with a size run of 10/25/30/25/10 (XS/S/M/L/XL), you’re ordering 10 XS, 25 S, 30 M, 25 L, and 10 XL.
Spec (Specification) Any defined requirement for a garment’s construction, materials, or finish. Specs cover everything from fabric weight and color to stitch type, button size, and label placement. All specs are documented in the tech pack.
Tech Pack (Technical Package) The single most important document in fashion manufacturing. A tech pack is a detailed blueprint that communicates everything a manufacturer needs to produce your garment flat sketches, measurements, fabric specs, construction details, trims, labels, packaging instructions, and more. We cover this extensively in our tech pack creation guide.
Tolerance The acceptable range of variation from the specified measurement. For example, if the chest width spec is 22 inches with a +/- 1/2 inch tolerance, garments measuring between 21.5 and 22.5 inches pass quality control. Tighter tolerances mean higher quality standards.
Toile The European term for muslin (a test garment made in inexpensive fabric). More commonly used in British and French fashion contexts.
Construction & Sewing Terms
These are the terms you’ll see in tech packs and hear on the factory floor. Understanding them helps you communicate exactly how you want your garments built.
Applique A decorative technique where a piece of fabric is sewn onto a larger piece to create a design or pattern. Common in streetwear, children’s clothing, and embellished garments.
Bar Tack A series of closely spaced stitches (usually a zig-zag formation) used to reinforce stress points on a garment, such as belt loop ends, pocket corners, and fly openings. A small but critical construction detail.
Binding A strip of fabric folded over a raw edge to finish and enclose it. Used on necklines, armholes, and hems. Binding can be self-fabric or contrast fabric, and its width and application method should be specified in the tech pack.
Blind Hem A hemming technique where the stitching is nearly invisible from the right side of the garment. Achieved with a special blind hem stitch or by hand. Common in dress pants, skirts, and formal garments.
Bonding Joining two or more layers of fabric together using adhesive instead of stitching. Common in performance outerwear, technical fabrics, and seamless activewear. Bonded seams are smoother and can be waterproof.
Chainstitch A sewing stitch that forms a chain-like pattern on the underside. Used for hemming (especially on jeans), waistbands, and seam closures. Chainstitched hems create the distinctive “roping” effect valued in premium denim.
Coverseam (Coverstitch) A stitch formed by two or three needles on the top side and a looper on the underside, creating parallel rows of stitching on the outside and an overlock-style finish on the inside. Used on hems and necklines of knit garments. The standard for t-shirt and activewear hems.
Dart A tapered, stitched fold of fabric used to shape a flat piece of fabric to the curves of the body. Common at the bust, waist, and shoulder blade areas. Darts are a fundamental construction element in fitted garments.
Ease The extra room built into a garment beyond exact body measurements to allow for movement and comfort. A shirt with 4 inches of ease at the chest means the chest measurement is 4 inches larger than the actual body measurement. Ease varies by garment type and desired fit.
Embroidery Decorative needlework stitched onto fabric using thread (or sometimes yarn or other materials). Can be done by hand or by machine. Machine embroidery is specified by stitch count, thread color (Pantone or thread brand reference), and placement.
Facing A piece of fabric sewn to the inside of a garment at an opening (neckline, armhole, waistband, or front closure) to create a clean, finished edge. Facings are hidden inside the garment.
Fell Seam (Flat-Felled Seam) A strong, flat, enclosed seam where one seam allowance is trimmed, the other is folded over it, and then topstitched flat. Used on jeans, work wear, and anywhere durability matters. You can see it as two parallel rows of stitching on the outside.
French Seam A seam that encloses the raw edges of fabric within itself, creating a clean finish on both the inside and outside. Made by sewing the wrong sides together first, trimming, then sewing the right sides together to enclose the raw edge. Used on sheer and lightweight fabrics.
Gusset A triangular or diamond-shaped piece of fabric inserted at a seam junction to add width, stretch, or reinforcement. Common in the crotch area of pants, underarm area of shirts, and in athletic wear for range of motion.
Heat Transfer A decoration method where a design is printed onto a special paper and then transferred to the garment using heat and pressure. Used for logos, graphics, and all-over prints. Different from screen printing and DTG.
Interfacing A textile material applied to the inside of a garment to provide structure, reinforcement, or stability in specific areas. Available in fusible (iron-on) and sew-in varieties. Used in collars, cuffs, waistbands, button plackets, and anywhere stiffness is needed.
Lockstitch The most common industrial sewing stitch, formed by two threads (one from the needle and one from the bobbin) that interlock in the middle of the fabric. Strong, secure, and used for most straight seams. Your basic sewing machine stitch.
Merrow (Overlock) A stitch that simultaneously sews, trims, and encloses the raw edge of fabric. Created by an overlock (serger) machine. Used to finish raw edges and prevent fraying. Also used as a visible edge finish on some casual garments and knitwear.
Placket A finished opening in a garment that allows for putting it on and taking it off, typically with buttons, snaps, or a zipper. The front button area of a dress shirt is a placket. Polo shirt necklines have a placket.
Pleat A fold of fabric created by doubling the material over on itself and securing it in place. Types include box pleats, knife pleats, and inverted pleats. Used in skirts, pants, and decorative details.
Raglan Sleeve A sleeve that extends in one piece from the neckline to the underarm, rather than being set in at the shoulder. Creates diagonal seams from the neck to the underarm. Common in sweatshirts, t-shirts, and athletic wear.
Screen Printing A printing method where ink is pressed through a fine mesh screen onto the fabric. Each color requires a separate screen. Cost-effective for large runs of simple designs (1–6 colors). Pricing is per screen (color) plus per-unit print charges.
Set-in Sleeve A sleeve that is attached to the bodice at the natural shoulder point, with the seam running around the armhole. The most common sleeve construction method. Requires careful easing of the sleeve cap into the armhole.
SPI (Stitches Per Inch) The number of stitches in one inch of sewing. Higher SPI means finer, more closely spaced stitches. Standard SPI varies by stitch type and garment category a typical lockstitch seam might be 10–12 SPI, while topstitching might be 8–10 SPI. SPI is specified in the tech pack.
Sublimation Printing A printing process where heat converts solid dye particles into gas, which then bonds permanently with polyester fibers. Produces vibrant, all-over prints that won’t crack, peel, or fade. Only works on polyester or poly-blend fabrics (minimum 60% polyester).
Topstitch A line of stitching visible on the outside (right side) of a garment, sewn parallel to a seam or edge. Topstitching serves both functional (holding seams flat, reinforcing edges) and decorative purposes. Common on jeans, jackets, and structured garments.
Welt Pocket A pocket finished with a narrow strip (welt) of fabric at the opening, creating a clean, tailored look. Single-welt and double-welt pockets are common in blazers, dress pants, and premium outerwear.
YKK The world’s largest zipper manufacturer (Yoshida Kogyo Kabushikikaisha). YKK zippers are the industry standard for quality and reliability. Specifying “YKK” in your tech pack tells the manufacturer to use genuine YKK hardware, not generic alternatives.
Production & Manufacturing Terms
This is where the rubber meets the road. These terms cover the actual process of turning raw materials into finished garments. For a complete overview of the manufacturing process, read our guide on small batch clothing manufacturing.
AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) A statistical sampling method used during quality inspection to determine whether a production batch meets quality standards. An AQL of 2.5 (the most common in apparel) means that in a random sample, no more than 2.5% of units can have defects for the batch to pass.
Bill of Materials (BOM) A comprehensive list of every material, component, and trim needed to produce a garment fabric (with yardage), thread, zippers, buttons, labels, hang tags, poly bags, etc. The BOM is part of the tech pack and is used by the manufacturer to calculate material costs and place orders.
Blanks Pre-made, undecorated garments (usually t-shirts, hoodies, or sweatshirts) purchased from a wholesaler and then customized with printing, embroidery, or other decoration. Using blanks is the simplest entry point into fashion but it limits your ability to control fit, fabric, and construction. See our comparison: print-on-demand vs. custom manufacturing.
Block Cutting A method of cutting fabric where multiple layers (a “lay”) are cut simultaneously using a straight knife or die cutter. More efficient than single-ply cutting. Standard for production runs of any significant volume.
Bulk Production The full-scale manufacturing run after all samples have been approved. This is when your manufacturer produces the total quantity of your order across all sizes and colorways. Also called “production run” or “full production.”
CMT (Cut, Make, Trim) A manufacturing arrangement where the brand supplies all materials (fabric, trims, labels, packaging) and the factory only performs the cutting, sewing, and trimming services. The brand is responsible for sourcing and delivering all materials to the factory. CMT pricing only covers labor and factory overhead.
Counter Sample A sample made by the manufacturer based on your reference sample or tech pack, produced to show their interpretation and capability before you commit to production. This is the factory’s way of saying, “Here’s what we can make based on what you showed us.”
Cut Order The document that tells the cutting room exactly how many units to cut in each size and colorway, including fabric allocation, marker reference, and cutting instructions.
Cut Ticket A tag or document attached to bundles of cut fabric pieces as they move through the factory. The cut ticket contains the style number, size, color, bundle number, and operation sequence. It tracks the garment through every stage of production.
Die Cutting A cutting method that uses a sharp steel die (like a cookie cutter) to cut fabric into specific shapes. Used for small, precise pieces like patches, appliques, and leather goods. More accurate than knife cutting for small components.
DTG (Direct-to-Garment) A digital printing technology that prints designs directly onto fabric using specialized inkjet printers. Ideal for complex, multi-color designs and small quantities. No screen setup required, making it cost-effective for small batches.
Duty A tax or tariff imposed by a government on imported goods. Duty rates for apparel vary by garment type, fiber content, and country of origin. Duty can significantly impact your landed cost when importing from overseas manufacturers.
Embellishment Any decorative element added to a garment beyond the base fabric embroidery, screen printing, rhinestones, sequins, patches, heat transfers, etc. Each embellishment type has different cost structures and minimum quantities.
Finishing The final steps in garment production after sewing pressing/steaming, quality inspection, loose thread trimming, folding, tagging, and packaging. Finishing is where a garment goes from “made” to “retail-ready.”
First Sample See Proto Sample.
FPP (Full Package Production / Full Production Package) A manufacturing arrangement where the factory handles everything sourcing fabric and trims, cutting, sewing, finishing, and packaging. The brand provides the tech pack and approvals; the factory does the rest. FPP pricing is higher per unit but requires less hands-on management from the brand.
Fusing The process of bonding interfacing to fabric using heat and pressure in a fusing press. Critical for collars, cuffs, and other structured areas. Proper fusing temperature and time are essential over-fusing causes bubbling; under-fusing causes delamination after washing.
Garment Wash A washing or treatment process applied to finished garments to achieve a specific look, hand feel, or finish. Includes enzyme wash, stone wash, acid wash, silicone wash, and pigment wash. Common in denim and casual wear.
Lay (Lay-Up) The process of spreading multiple layers of fabric on a cutting table in preparation for cutting. A lay might be 50–100+ layers deep depending on the fabric type and order size. Proper lay tension and alignment are critical for accurate cutting.
Lay Plan The plan that specifies the number of fabric layers, the length of each lay, and how different sizes and colorways will be organized across multiple lays for cutting. A well-planned lay minimizes fabric waste.
Lead Time The total time from placing a production order to receiving finished goods. Lead times in garment manufacturing typically range from 4–12 weeks depending on complexity, factory capacity, and fabric availability. In the LA Fashion District, lead times of 4–6 weeks are common for small batch production.
MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity) The smallest number of units a manufacturer will agree to produce in a single production order. MOQs vary widely some LA factories go as low as 50–100 units, while overseas factories may require 500–1,000+ units per style per color. MOQ is often the first question new founders ask. Learn more in our guide to finding the best manufacturers for small brands.
“MOQ is where most brand founders get stuck. They design ten styles and then realize they need 300 units per style per colorway to meet factory minimums suddenly they’re looking at a $150,000 order instead of the $15,000 they budgeted. Start with fewer styles and fewer colorways. Get those right first.” – James Whitfield, Apparel Production Consultant, Los Angeles
Packing List A document that itemizes the contents of a shipment style numbers, sizes, colors, quantities per carton, carton dimensions, and total unit count. Used for inventory receiving and customs clearance.
Pre-Production The phase between sample approval and the start of bulk production. During pre-production, the factory orders bulk fabric and trims, creates production markers, prepares cutting instructions, and plans the production schedule.
Proto Sample (Prototype) The first physical sample made from your tech pack or design. Usually made in available stock fabric (not necessarily the final production fabric) to evaluate the overall design, proportions, and construction. The proto sample kicks off the sampling process.
Sample Yardage A small quantity of fabric (typically 3–10 yards) purchased for making samples and tests before committing to bulk fabric orders. Sample yardage allows you to evaluate the actual fabric before production.
Sew-By (Sew-By Sample) The final approved sample that is kept on the factory floor as the physical reference standard during bulk production. Every unit in the production run should match the sew-by sample. This is your “gold standard” garment.
Shrinkage The amount a fabric or garment contracts after washing and drying, expressed as a percentage. A 5% shrinkage rate means a 40-inch measurement will shrink to 38 inches. Patterns must account for expected shrinkage. Shrinkage testing is done during the development phase.
Sourcing The process of finding and selecting suppliers for fabric, trims, components, and manufacturing services. Sourcing can be done domestically (e.g., LA’s Fashion District) or internationally (e.g., China, India, Turkey, Portugal).
Spreading See Lay.
Strike-Off A test print or sample of a fabric print produced to check the colors, pattern repeat, and registration before committing to bulk fabric printing. You must approve the strike-off before the mill prints the full fabric order.
Trim Any component used in a garment other than the main body fabric. Trims include zippers, buttons, snaps, labels, hang tags, elastic, drawcords, grommets, rivets, patches, and any other hardware or accessories. Trim specifications are detailed in the tech pack and BOM.
Quality Control Terms
Quality control can make or break your brand’s reputation. These are the terms you need to know to protect your product and your customers. A good manufacturer will talk about QC proactively if they don’t, that’s a red flag.
AQL Inspection A formal quality check using Acceptable Quality Level sampling tables (typically ANSI/ASQ Z1.4). The inspector randomly selects units from the production batch and examines them against the approved spec. Based on the number of defects found in the sample, the entire batch is accepted or rejected.
Colorfastness A fabric’s resistance to color change or color transfer when exposed to washing, light, perspiration, dry cleaning, or rubbing (crocking). Colorfastness is tested using standardized methods (AATCC in the US, ISO internationally) and rated on a 1–5 scale, where 5 is best.
Crocking The transfer of color from a fabric’s surface to another surface through rubbing. Tested using a crockmeter. Both dry crocking and wet crocking are measured. Poor crocking means your garments will bleed color onto skin, upholstery, or other clothing.
Critical Defect A defect that poses a safety hazard or violates regulations (e.g., a detachable small part on children’s clothing, a broken needle left in a garment, non-compliant fiber content labeling). Critical defects result in automatic batch rejection zero tolerance.
Defect Classification The system of categorizing defects by severity. Standard classifications are: Critical (safety hazard, automatic rejection), Major (likely to result in a customer return), and Minor (noticeable but unlikely to affect usability or cause a return).
Fabric Inspection (4-Point System) The standard method for inspecting fabric rolls before cutting. Defects are assigned 1–4 penalty points based on size and severity. Fabric scoring more than 40 points per 100 square yards is typically rejected. This catch-up inspection prevents defective fabric from entering production.
Final Inspection The last quality check before garments are packed and shipped. Performed on finished, packed goods. Covers appearance, measurements, construction, labeling, packaging, and overall workmanship. This is your last line of defense.
Fit Sample A sample made in the correct production fabric and in the base size, specifically to evaluate and approve the fit of the garment. The fit sample is tried on a fit model or dress form and measured against the spec sheet. Multiple rounds of fit samples may be needed before approval.
Inline Inspection A quality check performed during production (while garments are being sewn), rather than waiting until the end. Inline inspections catch problems early and prevent entire production runs from being defective.
Lab Dip A small swatch of fabric dyed to match a specified color (usually a Pantone reference). Lab dips are submitted by the dye house for the brand’s approval before bulk fabric dyeing begins. You may need 2–3 rounds of lab dips to achieve the exact color match.
Major Defect A defect that is likely to cause a customer return or significantly affect the garment’s appearance or performance for example, wrong sizing, visible staining, incorrect color, broken stitching, or misaligned patterns.
Minor Defect A small imperfection that is unlikely to affect the garment’s function or cause a customer return for example, a slightly loose thread, a minor shade variation in a non-visible area, or a tiny skip stitch in an inner seam.
Needle Detector A machine that scans finished garments for broken needle fragments a critical safety check, especially for children’s clothing and exported goods. Most reputable factories run 100% of production through needle detectors before packing.
PP Sample (Pre-Production Sample) A sample made using the actual production fabric, trims, and construction methods, in the base size. The PP sample represents exactly what the bulk production will look like. Approving the PP sample gives the factory the green light to begin full production.
Shade Band (Shade Blanket) A range of acceptable color variations, presented as fabric swatches showing the lightest and darkest acceptable versions of the approved color. Used as a reference during production to ensure fabric within the batch doesn’t vary beyond acceptable limits.
TOP Sample (Top of Production Sample) Samples pulled from the actual production line during the first hours of bulk manufacturing. TOP samples are sent to the brand for review to confirm that the production run matches the approved PP sample. This is your early warning system for production issues.
Wash Test A test where a garment or fabric swatch is washed (typically 3–5 cycles) according to standard home laundering conditions to evaluate shrinkage, colorfastness, pilling, hand feel change, and overall durability. Wash test results should be reviewed before approving bulk production.
Business & Costing Terms
Understanding the financial side of manufacturing is just as important as understanding the technical side. These terms show up in every negotiation, invoice, and cost sheet. For a full breakdown of startup costs, visit our cost calculator.
CMT Cost The cost charged by a factory for Cut, Make, and Trim services only (labor and overhead). Does not include the cost of fabric, trims, or other materials, which the brand purchases and supplies separately. CMT cost is typically expressed per unit.
Cost Sheet A detailed breakdown of every cost component for a single garment fabric cost (calculated from consumption), trim costs, CMT/labor cost, wash/finishing costs, packaging costs, and the factory’s margin. The cost sheet tells you exactly where your money goes.
Costing The process of calculating the total cost to manufacture a garment. Accurate costing requires knowing fabric consumption, trim costs, labor time (SAM), overhead rates, and margin. Getting costing right is critical for setting retail prices that actually work.
Consumption The amount of fabric required to produce one unit of a garment, typically expressed in yards or meters. Consumption depends on the garment size, number of pieces, fabric width, and marker efficiency. A basic t-shirt might consume 1.5–1.8 yards of 60-inch-wide jersey.
DDP (Delivered Duty Paid) An Incoterm where the seller (manufacturer) is responsible for all costs and risks of delivering the goods to the buyer’s location, including import duties, taxes, and customs clearance. The buyer pays nothing beyond the agreed price.
EXW (Ex Works) An Incoterm where the buyer is responsible for all costs and risks from the moment the goods leave the factory. The cheapest option for the manufacturer, the most work for the buyer.
Fabric Yield The usable amount of garment pieces that can be cut from a given length of fabric. Higher yield means less waste. Yield depends on fabric width, pattern piece shapes, marker efficiency, and pattern matching requirements.
First Cost The manufacturer’s quoted price per unit for finished garments, before any shipping, duty, insurance, or other costs are added. Also called the “factory gate price” or “ex-factory price.”
FOB (Free On Board) An Incoterm specifying that the seller delivers the goods onto the shipping vessel at the port of origin. The seller pays for transportation to the port and loading. The buyer pays for ocean freight, insurance, import duties, and delivery from the arrival port. FOB is the most common pricing term in overseas garment manufacturing.
FPP Cost The cost charged by a factory for Full Package Production, which includes all materials, labor, trims, and packaging. FPP cost is a true all-in unit cost (minus shipping to your warehouse). Compare this with CMT cost when evaluating manufacturers.
Incoterms (International Commercial Terms) A set of standardized trade terms published by the International Chamber of Commerce that define the responsibilities of buyers and sellers in international transactions. Common Incoterms in fashion include FOB, CIF, DDP, and EXW.
Keystone Markup A pricing strategy where the retail price is set at double the wholesale cost (2x markup, or 100% markup). In fashion, many brands use a higher markup 2.5x to 4x to account for promotions, wholesale margins, and operational costs.
Landed Cost The total cost of getting a product from the factory to your warehouse, including the product cost (first cost), shipping/freight, import duties, customs brokerage fees, insurance, and any other charges incurred during transit. Landed cost is your true per-unit cost.
LC (Letter of Credit) A financial instrument issued by a bank guaranteeing payment to the manufacturer upon proof of shipment (presentation of specified documents). Common in international manufacturing especially with new relationships as it protects both parties.
Margin The percentage difference between the cost of goods and the selling price. Gross margin = (Selling Price - COGS) / Selling Price. Healthy fashion brand margins typically range from 50–70% at retail.
Minimum Order Value (MOV) Similar to MOQ, but expressed in dollars rather than units. Some factories set a minimum dollar amount per order (e.g., $5,000 minimum) rather than a minimum unit count.
Net Terms Payment terms that specify how many days the buyer has to pay after receiving the goods or invoice. “Net 30” means payment is due within 30 days. Most factories require deposits (50% upfront is standard) and balance on completion, especially for new clients.
Payment Terms The agreed-upon schedule for when and how payments are made. Common structures include 50% deposit / 50% on completion, 30/70, or LC terms. Payment terms are one of the first things negotiated with a new manufacturer.
SAM (Standard Allowed Minutes) The measured time it takes a trained operator to complete a specific sewing operation under standard conditions. SAM is used to calculate labor costs, set production targets, and plan factory capacity. A basic t-shirt might have a total SAM of 12–18 minutes.
T/T (Telegraphic Transfer) A wire transfer payment method commonly used in international manufacturing. Faster and more traceable than checks. Standard payment instructions from overseas factories will typically specify T/T to their bank account.
Unit Cost (COGS per Unit) The total cost to produce one unit of a garment, including all materials, labor, overhead, and factory margin. This is the number you need for pricing, margin analysis, and profitability planning.
Sustainability Terms
Sustainability is no longer optional in fashion it’s expected. These terms cover the responsible manufacturing practices and certifications you’ll encounter.
Bluesign A certification system for the textile industry that screens chemical inputs and monitors manufacturing processes to ensure safe, environmentally responsible production. Bluesign-certified fabrics have been produced with minimal impact on people and the environment.
Circular Fashion A design and production philosophy aimed at keeping garments in use for as long as possible and recovering materials at end of life through recycling, upcycling, or composting. Circular fashion designs for durability, repairability, and recyclability from the start.
Closed-Loop Manufacturing A production system where waste materials (fabric scraps, water, chemicals) are recovered and recycled back into the production process. Closed-loop systems minimize waste and reduce environmental impact. Tencel/lyocell production is a well-known example.
Deadstock Fabric Surplus or leftover fabric from other production runs, available for purchase at a discount. Using deadstock is a sustainable sourcing strategy (it prevents fabric from going to landfill), but availability, quantity, and consistency are unpredictable.
GRS (Global Recycled Standard) A certification that verifies the recycled content in a product and tracks the recycled material through the supply chain. GRS certification requires third-party verification and covers social, environmental, and chemical practices.
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) The world’s leading standard for organic fibers. GOTS certification covers the entire supply chain from harvesting raw materials to environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing. A garment labeled “GOTS certified” meets stringent organic and ethical criteria.
Greenwashing The practice of making misleading or unsubstantiated claims about the environmental benefits of a product or practice. In fashion, greenwashing might involve labeling a garment “eco-friendly” because it uses one sustainable material while ignoring harmful production practices elsewhere in the supply chain.
Low-Impact Dye Dyes that have a higher absorption rate (requiring less water for rinsing), contain no toxic chemicals or heavy metals, and meet standards set by organizations like Oeko-Tex. Low-impact dyes reduce water pollution and are safer for workers.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 An independent testing and certification system for textile products at all stages of production. OEKO-TEX certification means the fabric has been tested for harmful substances (heavy metals, formaldehyde, pesticides, etc.) and is safe for human use.
Organic Cotton Cotton grown without synthetic pesticides, fertilizers, or genetically modified seeds. Organic cotton uses 91% less water from blue water sources than conventional cotton (Textile Exchange). It costs more but appeals to environmentally conscious consumers.
Post-Consumer Waste Materials discarded by the end consumer (worn-out garments, plastic bottles, etc.) that are collected and recycled into new fibers or fabrics. Recycled polyester made from post-consumer PET bottles is one of the most common examples.
Pre-Consumer Waste Manufacturing waste (fabric scraps, yarn waste, defective materials) that is recycled before it ever reaches the consumer. Using pre-consumer waste in new fabric production is a common sustainability practice.
rPET (Recycled Polyethylene Terephthalate) Polyester fiber made from recycled plastic (typically post-consumer PET bottles). rPET has the same performance properties as virgin polyester but diverts plastic from landfills and oceans. Approximately 10 plastic bottles can produce enough rPET fiber for one t-shirt.
Supply Chain Transparency The practice of disclosing information about every stage of a product’s supply chain from raw material sourcing to manufacturing to distribution. Increasingly demanded by consumers and regulators. Brands like Everlane and Patagonia have built their identities around transparency.
Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting A design and pattern-making approach where pattern pieces are engineered to use 100% of the fabric with no scraps or waste. Zero-waste designs require creative pattern engineering and often result in distinctive garment shapes.
Quick-Reference Comparison: CMT vs. FPP Manufacturing
One of the most common questions we get at Plucky Reach is whether to go with CMT or FPP manufacturing. Here’s a side-by-side comparison to help you decide.
For a deeper comparison, read our full guide on CMT vs. FPP manufacturing.
The Sample Development Process: Terms in Order
Understanding the sampling sequence is critical. Here’s the typical sample progression from first concept to production, with each sample type defined.
According to Plucky Reach data, the average brand goes through 2.3 rounds of fit samples before achieving final approval. Brands that provide complete, detailed tech packs average just 1.6 rounds saving 2–3 weeks of development time. Among our clients, 83% who skip the proto sample stage and jump straight to fit samples end up needing more total revision rounds, not fewer.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a tech pack in fashion manufacturing?
A tech pack (technical package) is a detailed document that serves as the blueprint for manufacturing a garment. It includes flat sketches (front and back), a complete measurement spec sheet with tolerances, a bill of materials (BOM), fabric and trim specifications, construction details (stitch types, seam types, SPI), label and packaging instructions, colorway information, and any special notes. The tech pack is how you communicate your design to a manufacturer without ambiguity. We’ve seen brands save thousands of dollars and weeks of time by investing in a thorough tech pack. Learn how to create one in our complete tech pack guide.
What does MOQ mean and why does it matter?
MOQ stands for Minimum Order Quantity the smallest number of units a manufacturer will produce per style per color. MOQs exist because factories need a minimum volume to justify the setup time, material sourcing, and production line configuration. In Los Angeles, MOQs typically range from 50–300 units per style per colorway. Overseas factories often require 500–3,000+ units. MOQ is one of the biggest factors in choosing the right manufacturing partner, especially for new brands with limited budgets.
What is the difference between CMT and FPP?
CMT (Cut, Make, Trim) means you supply all the materials and the factory only provides labor cutting, sewing, and trimming your garments. FPP (Full Package Production) means the factory handles everything from sourcing fabric and trims to producing and packaging the finished garments. CMT gives you more control and typically has a lower per-unit cost, but requires more hands-on management. FPP is simpler to manage but costs more per unit because the factory adds their margin on materials.
What is GSM and why should I care?
GSM (Grams per Square Meter) is the standard measurement for fabric weight. It directly affects how a garment feels, hangs, and performs. A lightweight summer t-shirt is typically 120–160 GSM. A mid-weight year-round tee is 160–200 GSM. A premium heavyweight tee is 200–280 GSM. Hoodie fleece ranges from 280–400+ GSM. Specifying the correct GSM in your tech pack ensures you get the fabric weight you expect. Getting GSM wrong is one of the most common and costly mistakes we see.
What is the difference between a fit sample and a PP sample?
A fit sample is made to evaluate and perfect the garment’s fit how it sits on the body, how the proportions look, and whether measurements match the spec sheet. It may or may not use the final production fabric. A PP (Pre-Production) sample is made after the fit is approved, using the actual production fabric, trims, and construction methods. The PP sample represents exactly what the bulk production will look like. Approving the PP sample gives the factory the green light to start production.
What does FOB mean in clothing manufacturing?
FOB (Free On Board) is an international trade term that defines when responsibility for goods transfers from the seller to the buyer. FOB pricing means the manufacturer is responsible for the product cost and transportation to the port of origin. The buyer is responsible for ocean freight, insurance, import duties, and delivery from the destination port. When a factory quotes you an “FOB price,” the shipping and duty costs are not included.
How long does garment manufacturing typically take?
Lead times vary significantly based on complexity, factory capacity, and material availability. In general: domestic (LA) production takes 4–8 weeks from approved PP sample to finished goods. Overseas production takes 8–16 weeks. Custom fabric development adds 4–8 weeks on top of production time. Sample development (proto through PP approval) typically takes 3–6 weeks before production even begins. Total timeline from first tech pack to delivered product is often 3–6 months.
What is AQL and how does quality inspection work?
AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) is a statistical method used to inspect production batches without checking every single unit. The most common AQL level in apparel is 2.5 for major defects. The inspector uses standardized sampling tables to determine how many units to check based on the total order quantity. Each inspected unit is examined for defects, which are classified as Critical, Major, or Minor. If the number of defects in the sample exceeds the AQL threshold, the entire batch fails inspection and must be reworked or rejected.
What is a marker in garment manufacturing?
A marker is a layout diagram showing how all pattern pieces for all sizes are optimally arranged on the fabric to minimize waste during cutting. Think of it like a puzzle the marker maker arranges pieces to fit as tightly as possible. Marker efficiency is expressed as a percentage of fabric used versus wasted. A skilled marker maker using CAD software can achieve 80–88% efficiency, meaning only 12–20% of fabric is wasted. Marker efficiency directly affects your fabric cost per unit.
What is the difference between warp and weft?
Warp and weft are the two sets of yarns used to create woven fabric. Warp yarns run lengthwise (vertically) on the loom and are held under tension they’re the structural backbone of the fabric. Weft yarns run crosswise (horizontally), interlacing with the warp. The warp direction in finished fabric runs parallel to the selvage edge. Understanding warp and weft matters because fabric behaves differently in each direction it typically has less stretch along the warp and more along the weft (or bias).
What should I know about fabric shrinkage before production?
Fabric shrinkage is the percentage a fabric contracts after washing and drying. Cotton and linen are especially prone to shrinkage (3–8% is common for cotton). Shrinkage must be accounted for during the pattern-making stage patterns are made slightly larger so the finished garment hits the correct measurements after the consumer washes it. Your manufacturer should provide shrinkage test results for the production fabric, and your patterns should be adjusted accordingly. Failure to account for shrinkage is one of the top reasons for size inconsistencies in finished goods.
What is a BOM and why is it important?
A BOM (Bill of Materials) is a complete list of every material and component needed to produce one unit of a garment. It includes main fabric (with yardage per unit), lining fabric, interfacing, thread (type and color), zipper (type, length, brand), buttons (size, material, quantity), labels (woven, printed, care), hang tags, poly bags, and every other trim. The BOM is essential for accurate costing, material ordering, and quality control. Without a complete BOM, your manufacturer will either make assumptions (often wrong) or delay production asking questions.
What are Incoterms and which one should I use?
Incoterms (International Commercial Terms) define who pays for what in an international shipment and when the risk transfers from seller to buyer. The most common in fashion are FOB (seller pays to the port), CIF (seller pays freight and insurance to the destination port), and DDP (seller pays everything including import duties). For most emerging brands importing from overseas, FOB is the standard starting point. If you’re manufacturing domestically in LA, Incoterms are less relevant since you’re typically picking up goods locally or paying domestic shipping.
How do I know if a manufacturer is legitimate?
Vetting a manufacturer involves checking their business license and registration, visiting the factory (or having a third party visit), requesting and calling client references, reviewing sample quality, understanding their capacity and specialization, and verifying their compliance certifications. We have a detailed guide on how to find and vet a clothing manufacturer that covers the 6 essential steps and the red flags to watch for.
What is the difference between screen printing and DTG?
Screen printing pushes ink through a mesh screen onto fabric each color requires a separate screen. It’s cost-effective for large orders with simple designs (1–6 colors) but has high setup costs. DTG (Direct-to-Garment) uses inkjet technology to print directly onto fabric no screens needed. DTG handles unlimited colors and complex artwork with no setup cost, making it ideal for small batches and on-demand printing. Screen printing generally produces more vibrant colors and better durability on dark fabrics, while DTG excels at photographic-quality prints and small quantities.
About the Author
Plucky Reach is a fashion business consulting firm based in the Los Angeles Fashion District. We have helped 1,000+ clothing brand founders go from idea to production from first sketch to retail shelf. Our team has 20+ years of direct relationships with LA garment manufacturers, and we specialize in connecting emerging brands with the right production partners.
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Plucky Reach
Fashion Business Consulting • Los Angeles Fashion District
Plucky Reach is a fashion business consulting firm based in the Los Angeles Fashion District. We have helped 1,000+ clothing brand founders go from idea to production — from first sketch to retail shelf. Our team has 20+ years of direct relationships with LA garment manufacturers, and we specialize in connecting emerging brands with the right production partners.
