How to Make a Tech Pack: Complete Step-by-Step Guide for Fashion Founders
How to Make a Tech Pack: Complete Step-by-Step Guide for Fashion Founders
A tech pack is the single most important document in clothing manufacturing. It is the difference between receiving the garment you imagined and receiving something that vaguely resembles it.
Yet most first-time founders come to us having either never heard of a tech pack, or having received a confused explanation that left them more uncertain than before. Some have tried to give manufacturers "inspiration images" or verbal descriptions and wondered why the results were wrong. Some have found a tech pack template online and created something so incomplete that it caused more problems than it solved.
This guide fixes all of that. We are Plucky Reach, and we have reviewed, created, and worked with hundreds of tech packs in our years inside the LA Fashion District. This is the complete, honest, practical breakdown of what a tech pack is, what it must contain, how to create one, and how to know when to hire the job out.
What Is a Tech Pack?
A tech pack short for "technical package," sometimes called a "technical specification sheet" or "spec pack" is the complete set of technical documents that tells a manufacturer exactly how to build your garment.
It is the universal language between a designer and a factory. It eliminates ambiguity. It prevents miscommunication. It protects you legally (because it establishes the agreed-upon standard for your product). And it is the prerequisite for every legitimate manufacturing conversation.
No reputable manufacturer will quote your garment, start sampling, or begin production without a tech pack. This is not a preference it is an operational necessity. A factory cannot produce a consistent, repeatable product without knowing, in precise detail, what that product is supposed to be.
If you are working with a manufacturer who says they can work from photos or general descriptions, you are working with either an inexperienced manufacturer or one who is planning to make approximation calls throughout production. Those calls will cost you money.
Tech Pack vs. Spec Sheet: What Is the Difference?
These terms are often used interchangeably, but there is a subtle distinction. A spec sheet (short for "specification sheet") typically refers to the measurement and size grading portion of a tech pack a single document focused on dimensions. A tech pack is the complete package: it includes the spec sheet plus technical sketches, bill of materials, construction notes, colorway information, labeling requirements, and costing information.
When a manufacturer asks for a "spec sheet," they often mean a full tech pack. Always clarify what they need, and provide the complete package.
Why a Proper Tech Pack Saves You Thousands of Dollars
Here is a concrete scenario we see regularly:
A founder creates a basic document with a few sketches and general notes. The factory builds a proto. The proto is wrong in six ways the collar sits too high, the hem width is off, the pocket placement is wrong, the fabric weight is too heavy, the buttonhole is misplaced, and the sleeve length does not match the measurement the founder had in mind.
Six corrections means at minimum two more sample rounds at $200–$500 per round. That is $400–$1,000 in avoidable costs, plus 4–8 weeks of added timeline (in LA; double that overseas).
A properly constructed tech pack with precise measurements, clear construction notes, and detailed technical sketches would have prevented every one of those six errors.
The ROI of a good tech pack: consistently 3–5x the cost of creating it.
The 8 Components of a Complete Tech Pack
A complete tech pack consists of eight components. We will cover each in detail.
Component 1: Technical Sketches (Flat Drawings)
Technical sketches called "flats" are precise, proportional, line-drawn illustrations of your garment. They show the garment as if laid flat on a table, without a model inside it, from both the front and back (and sides if necessary for complex garments).
What makes a technical sketch "technical":
- Accurate proportions (not stylized fashion illustration)
- All visible design elements drawn to scale: pockets, zippers, buttons, seams, topstitching, panels
- Close-up detail callouts for complex areas (neckline, cuff, waistband)
- Separate drawings for any lining or inner construction
What technical sketches are NOT:
- Fashion illustrations or mood board imagery
- Photos of reference garments
- Hand-drawn sketches from a sketchbook (these can supplement but not replace technical flats)
Software for creating technical sketches:
- Adobe Illustrator: The industry standard. Steep learning curve, but produces precise, scalable vector drawings. Most professional tech packs are created in Illustrator.
- CLO 3D: 3D garment design software with flat pattern and tech pack export capabilities. Powerful but expensive ($50–$75/month).
- Tech packer: Browser-based tech pack software with guided templates. More accessible for non-designers. ~$25–$50/month.
- Canva: Not designed for technical flats but usable for simple garment drawings with a skilled user. Free.
- Pencil and ruler (really): For founders with pattern-making training, hand-drafted technical flats are readable by manufacturers. For most founders without this background, digital creation is cleaner and easier to revise.
If you cannot create technical sketches yourself: A freelance technical designer can produce them for $50–$200 per style. This is one of the most justifiable outsourcing investments in the tech pack creation process.
Component 2: Bill of Materials (BOM)
The Bill of Materials is an itemized list of every material that goes into making your garment. Every thread, every zipper, every button, every label, every piece of interfacing, every yard of fabric.
A complete BOM includes:
Why the BOM matters: Without a BOM, the manufacturer sources materials at their discretion. This results in inconsistency between your sample and production, and materials that may not match your quality or cost expectations. The BOM is your specification of exactly what goes into the garment.
Fabric specification details to always include:
- Fiber content (80% cotton / 20% polyester)
- Fabric weight in GSM (grams per square meter): 180 GSM is a light jersey; 280 GSM is a mid-weight French terry; 400+ GSM is a heavy fleece
- Fabric construction (jersey, rib, French terry, woven, denim twill, etc.)
- Finish (brushed, distressed, enzyme wash, etc.)
- Colorway codes (Pantone or hex, not just "navy")
Component 3: Measurement Specifications
The measurement spec sheet lists every measurable dimension of the garment in your base size (typically a size Medium for women's or size Large for men's). These measurements define the garment's silhouette and fit.
Standard measurements for a basic crew-neck sweatshirt:
- Body length (center back, from HPS High Point of Shoulder)
- Chest width (measured 1 inch below armhole, laid flat, doubled)
- Bottom opening width
- Shoulder width (seam to seam)
- Sleeve length (from center back or from shoulder seam)
- Sleeve opening / cuff width
- Neck opening width
- Neck depth (front and back)
- Armhole depth
- Ribbing width (at hem, cuff, collar)
Measurement tolerances: Always specify your acceptable tolerance for each measurement. Standard tolerance is ±0.25 inch for most measurements, ±0.5 inch for body length. Specifying tolerances prevents disputes about whether a garment is "close enough" during QC.
POMs (Points of Measure): Professional spec sheets number each measurement point and indicate where the measurement is taken. Ambiguity about measurement methodology is a common source of QC disputes.
Component 4: Size Grading
Size grading specifies how each measurement changes from size to size across your full size run. If your base size is Medium, grading tells the factory how to adjust every measurement for Small, Large, XL, and so on.
Example size grade for chest width (sweatshirt):
Grading is one of the most technical aspects of garment specification. Improper grading results in garments that look proportional in Medium but distorted in XS or XXL. This is a function where most founders should hire professional help unless they have a pattern-making background.
Industry standard grading increments: Women's tops typically grade in 1–1.5 inch increments at the chest; bottoms in 1 inch increments at the waist and hip. Men's typically grade in 1.5–2 inch increments.
If you are launching with a single size as a proof of concept (some founders do this), you can omit grading initially but you will need it for any real launch across a size range.
Component 5: Colorways
The colorway section specifies every color version of your garment you are producing, with precise color references.
Critical rule: Never specify a color by name alone. "Navy" to one manufacturer is "dark navy" to another and "slate blue" to a third. Always reference colors with:
- Pantone (PMS) codes: The industry standard for color specification. Example: PMS 289 C (dark navy).
- Hex codes: For digitally reproduced colors. Example: #1B2A4A.
- Physical color standard: For production runs, a physical color swatch attached to the tech pack eliminates any remaining ambiguity.
Colorway documentation should include:
- Each colorway given a name (e.g., "Colorway 1: Jet Black / White," "Colorway 2: Washed Olive / Natural")
- Main fabric color reference
- Trim colors (rib, lining, zippers)
- Thread color specification
- Label and tag specifications per colorway (if labels change with colorway)
Component 6: Construction Notes
Construction notes are written instructions about how the garment is assembled. They cover seam types, stitch types, finish methods, and any specific construction details that need to be executed in a particular way.
Examples of construction notes:
- "All main seams: 4-thread serge, 5/8" seam allowance"
- "Side seams: flatlock stitch, 1/2" seam allowance"
- "Hem: 1" double-fold, topstitched with 2-needle 1/4" twin needle"
- "Collar: self-fabric rib, 3/4" fold-over, sewn with 2-needle coverstitch"
- "Pocket opening: bartack at each end, 4 bartacks minimum, 1/2" from edge"
Why construction notes matter: Factories have default construction methods they use unless specified otherwise. Their defaults may not match your quality standard or aesthetic. If you want flatlock seams on your activewear, you must specify that the factory will not guess.
Component 7: Labels and Care Instructions
Label specifications cover every label in your garment: main brand label, care label, size label, country-of-origin label, and any specialty labels (heritage labels, composition labels required by law).
Required labels for US retail (FTC requirements):
- Care instructions: Washing, drying, ironing, dry cleaning, bleaching symbols and/or text.
- Fiber content: Must list all fibers by percentage (e.g., "80% Cotton, 20% Polyester").
- Country of origin: "Made in USA" for LA production. Internationally manufactured goods must list the country of manufacture.
- Brand identity/RN number: Your registered brand name or your FTC Registered Number (RN number), which identifies your business.
Label placement specifications:
- Neck label: Position (center back, 1/2" from finished neckline seam), attachment method
- Care label: Position (left side seam, 3" above hemline the standard)
- Size label: Often printed on care label or as separate label attached alongside care label
Woven labels vs. printed labels: Woven labels (your logo woven into the fabric) are more premium and durable. Printed or heat-transfer labels feel cleaner against skin. Specify your preference.
Component 8: Cost Sheet
The cost sheet is the component most often omitted from tech packs created by first-time founders and the one that makes manufacturers take you more seriously.
A cost sheet in your tech pack signals that you have done the work to understand what your garment should cost to produce. It includes:
- Materials costs per unit (from your BOM, priced out)
- Estimated labor/CMT (cut, make, trim) cost per unit
- Target FOB price (the price at which you want the garment produced, exclusive of shipping)
- Target retail price
- Implied gross margin
You may not have final costs until after you receive manufacturer quotes, but including estimated targets shows the manufacturer that you are a serious buyer who understands economics. It also protects against situations where a manufacturer quotes a price significantly above what the garment should cost.
Step-by-Step Tech Pack Creation Process
Step 1: Create Your Technical Sketches First
Start with your front and back flats. Do not write measurements until your sketches are complete and you are confident in the silhouette. Measurements attached to an uncertain sketch waste time.
If you are using Adobe Illustrator, work on a standard 8.5" × 11" artboard at 1:1 scale. Use a consistent line weight (0.5pt for detail lines, 1pt for main silhouette). Create detailed callout boxes for complex construction areas.
Step 2: Build Your BOM
Open a spreadsheet. Go through your garment piece by piece and list every material component. Include fabric yardage estimates (measure a comparable garment and add 15–20% for seam allowances and waste). Price out each component with a quick vendor search this becomes your cost sheet foundation.
Step 3: Draft Your Measurements
Measure a garment that fits the way you want your garment to fit. Use this as the foundation for your base-size spec. If your brand's fit is different from the reference garment, document the deltas. List every Point of Measure with a numbered reference that corresponds to a callout on your technical sketch.
Step 4: Develop Size Grading
If you are doing a real size run, hire a pattern maker or grading specialist for this component. In LA, a freelance pattern maker charges $50–$150/hour. Grading a simple garment across 5 sizes takes 2–4 hours.
Step 5: Specify Colorways
Create a clean colorway documentation page with all Pantone references. If you have physical swatches (highly recommended), note in the tech pack that physical color standards are included.
Step 6: Write Construction Notes
Go through your technical sketch and write a construction note for every seam, every stitch, every attachment method. If you are not sure about the correct terminology, reference a guide to garment construction terms or ask our fashion consulting service to review your notes.
Step 7: Write Label Specs
Document every label placement, size, content, and attachment method. Provide physical samples of your woven labels if they are already produced.
Step 8: Compile the Cost Sheet
Price your BOM materials, estimate CMT based on garment complexity (or research comparable garments), and document your target unit cost and target retail price.
Step 9: Compile, Format, and Review
Bring all components into a consistent format (Illustrator, InDesign, or a clean PDF layout). Review every page for completeness and clarity. Have someone unfamiliar with your design read through the tech pack and tell you if anything is unclear ambiguity that is obvious to you is invisible until a manufacturer interprets it differently.
DIY vs. Hire-Out: When to Do Which
Cost to hire a tech pack freelancer:
- Basic garment (t-shirt, tank): $150–$250
- Moderate complexity (hoodie, jogger, simple dress): $250–$400
- Complex garment (structured jacket, tailored blazer): $400–$600
- Including size grading: add $75–$150
Where to find tech pack freelancers:
- Upwork (search "fashion tech pack" or "technical designer")
- Fiverr (variable quality; review portfolios carefully)
- LinkedIn (search "technical designer" + your city)
- Our tech pack services at Plucky Reach for production-ready documentation that manufacturers actually want to work from
The typical ROI calculation: a $300 professional tech pack that prevents two sample revisions at $300 each saves you $300 and 4–6 weeks. This math almost always favors hiring out, especially for your first garment.
Common Tech Pack Mistakes to Avoid
Mistake 1: Missing Measurements
Leaving any measurement unspecified means the factory defaults to their standard. Their standard may not be yours.
Mistake 2: Color Specified by Name Only
"Red" is not a color specification. PMS 186 C is a color specification.
Mistake 3: No Construction Notes
Writing construction notes feels tedious. Paying for three sample rounds because seam construction was not specified feels much worse.
Mistake 4: Omitting Seam Allowances
Specifying the finished measurement of a garment without indicating the seam allowance means the manufacturer cannot determine where to sew.
Mistake 5: Low-Resolution or Imprecise Sketches
If a manufacturer cannot clearly see what a construction detail is supposed to look like, they will interpret it. That interpretation will be wrong in ways you did not anticipate.
Mistake 6: Not Updating the Tech Pack After Samples
Your tech pack is a living document. Every approved sample change should be documented in an updated version of the tech pack with a version number and date. This prevents a situation where your production tech pack does not reflect the approved sample.
Mistake 7: No Version Control
Always date your tech packs and assign version numbers (V1, V2, V3). When you send a corrected tech pack to a manufacturer, specify clearly which version supersedes which. We have seen production runs based on the wrong version of a spec.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a tech pack in fashion?
A tech pack (technical package) is the complete set of documents that tells a garment manufacturer how to build your product. It includes technical flat sketches, a bill of materials, size specifications and measurements, size grading, colorways with Pantone references, construction notes, label placement and content specs, and a cost sheet. Without a tech pack, a factory cannot produce a consistent, specification-compliant garment.
Do I need design experience to make a tech pack?
Not necessarily. You need enough technical knowledge to create accurate flat sketches and measurements. Tools like Techpacker provide guided templates that make this more accessible for non-designers. For complex garments (structured outerwear, tailoring), we strongly recommend hiring a technical designer. Our fashion consulting service can guide you through the process regardless of your design background.
What software do I use to make a tech pack?
Adobe Illustrator is the industry standard and produces the most professional results. Techpacker is the most accessible dedicated tech pack software for non-designers. CLO 3D is powerful for brands doing 3D design. For simple garments, a well-organized Word or Google Docs document with imported flat sketches can be functional, though not ideal.
How much does it cost to get a tech pack made?
Hiring a freelance technical designer to create a tech pack costs $150–$600 per style depending on complexity. Basic garments (tees, tanks): $150–$250. Moderate complexity (hoodies, dresses): $250–$400. Complex garments (structured jackets, tailoring): $400–$600. Including size grading adds $75–$150.
What is the difference between a tech pack and a spec sheet?
A spec sheet typically refers specifically to the measurement specification portion of a tech pack the document listing all dimensions across your size range. A tech pack is the complete package including the spec sheet plus sketches, BOM, colorways, construction notes, and labeling specs. When a manufacturer asks for a spec, provide the full tech pack.
How long does it take to create a tech pack?
For a first-time creator working on a simple garment: 8–20 hours spread across multiple sessions. For a professional technical designer doing the same garment: 4–8 hours. For complex garments (tailored outerwear, technical activewear): 15–30+ hours. This is why many founders hire out not just for quality but for time efficiency.
Can I reuse a tech pack for similar styles?
Yes, with careful modification. If you are producing a similar silhouette in a new colorway or with minor construction changes, you can duplicate the existing tech pack, increment the version number, and update only the changed elements. Reusing a tech pack for a significantly different silhouette risks carrying over incorrect measurements.
When should I update my tech pack?
Update your tech pack after every approved sample round, incorporating all confirmed changes. Each production run should be based on the tech pack version that corresponds to the approved pre-production sample for that style. Maintaining clean version control between your tech packs and your approved samples is essential for QC and future reorders.
Is a tech pack the same as a pattern?
No. A tech pack is a documentation package that tells the manufacturer how to build the garment. A pattern is the physical (or digital) template that the fabric is cut from during production. The manufacturer or their pattern maker uses your tech pack to create or adapt the pattern. Tech packs and patterns are complementary tools both are needed for production.
What happens if I don't have a tech pack?
You will be unable to work with any reputable manufacturer. If you find a manufacturer willing to work without a tech pack, the resulting garment will be based on the factory's interpretation of your verbal description or inspiration images. The garment will almost certainly not match your expectations, and you will have no documented standard to dispute quality issues against.
Ready to Create a Production-Ready Tech Pack?
A well-executed tech pack is the foundation of your entire manufacturing relationship. It is not optional, it is not something to rush, and it is not worth skimping on.
If you want professional tech pack development documentation that manufacturers in the LA Fashion District actually want to work from, built by people who have done this for hundreds of garments our tech pack services are built for exactly that.
Or if you want to understand the full picture of what your launch requires before committing to anything, book a free consultation. We will tell you honestly what you need, what it will cost, and how to sequence your steps for the best possible outcome.